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Muram Pagi Museum Prasasti – tunawisma

Muram Pagi Museum Prasasti

Nobody knows the troubles I see,
Nobody knows my sorrow.

Wajah malaikat marbel itu menghadap lekat-lekat ke arah saya, namun tatapannya kosong. Tiga malaikat lainnya berdiri berjajar di dinding-dinding pembatas pagar, menengadah seraya meniup sangkakala batu dalam hening. Gerimis yang membasuh tanah kober ini meninggalkan linangan air di wajah-wajah muram mereka.

Nisan besar berlambang perisai kerajaan terpaku di depan pintu gerbang. Di sisinya teronggok sebuah patung wanita yang sedang tersedu-sedu menutupi wajahnya. Sementara di belakangnya patung seorang anak tertidur lelap di pangkuan ibunya.

Tanah kuburan ini mengingatkan saya kepada kuburan-kuburan kuno di Eropa. Tetapi tidak ada karangan bunga ataupun nyala lilin dari kerabat yang ditinggalkan, sebab seluruh nisan yang ada di tempat ini sudah dimuseumkan. Inilah Museum Prasasti yang tersembunyi di sudut-sudut sunyi Tanah Abang, sebuah kelangkaan tersendiri.

Banyak sosok penting yang pernah dimakamkan di tanah ini. Sebuah saja Mayor Jenderal Johan Kohler yang terbunuh dalam Perang Aceh, Hermanus Roll pendiri sekolah dokter STOVIA, Willem Stutterheim yang menulis studi tentang epik Hindu, dan banyak lagi. Bongkah-bongkah nisan tua milik Olivia Raffles, istri Thomas Stamford Raffles, maupun milik Soe Hok Gie juga terpampang di sudut museum beratap terbuka ini.

Mendung yang senantiasa menggelayut di angkasa Jakarta pada pagi hari ini membuat suasana Museum Prasasti begitu teduh dan syahdu. Saya duduk di salah satu kursi taman yang berada di tengah julangan turet-turet Gotik. Menikmati Museum Prasasti memang sebaiknya dilakukan dalam keheningan pagi, jauh sebelum para tukang foto menyerbu ke tempat ini siang nanti.

“Dulu tempat ini namanya Kebon Jahe Kober,” ucap bapak penjaga museum yang sedari tadi sibuk dengan buku catatannya, “Pindahan dari Kuburan Hollandsche Kerk di Kota Tua yang sudah penuh. Nisan-nisan dari Kota Tua ikut dipindah ke sini.”